Cuba Trip, January 2003
Day1-3 Day 4-5 Day 6 Day 7-8 Day 9 Day 10-11

Panarama of Havana

Havana panorama from Hotel Deauville. Click to see large view (takes a minute to load on a 56k modem)

There are a lot of facets of Cuba that I have come across and subscribed to: Afro-Cuban music emanating throughout the country, the worn, dilapidated French Spanish colonial architecture, the bastion of Communism in the Western hemisphere, the U.S. and Cuban-American political history making it very difficult and technically illegal for a U.S. citizen to spend money there, and the retro 50's cars and the mechanics who keep them running. These are the things that have instilled in me over the past 10 years a desire to see it for myself, and that finally got me there in January 2003.

Thanks to a call from my friend Ronni, who had some time off from school, we decided to trek to Cuba. What lay in store for us was a more educational experience than a day at the beach, partly because we were looking to meet the locals and not hole up in the tourist industry, but also because the week we were there was windy and cloudy half the time.

In truth, Cuba is full of dichotomies. Here there are shortages and rations (the tacqueria was out of tortillas the whole week), the crumbling infrastructures and crumbling structures, the double economy of pesos and dollars (discussed below), poverty (average wages for Cubans are $10/month), the repressive regime with no internet access for the general public and CDR officials on every block Cuba's nationwide system of neighborhood watch programs a.k.a. KGB), the black market and its existence out of the need for survival, the great music and cultural scene, visual arts, dance, filmmaking, nightlife, the great medical care and the lack of medical supplies, and the 95 percent literacy rate and children lacking toys.

I'm not a National Geographic photographer or journalist, but I hope that you find this site informative and entertaining, and perhaps leading you to your own journey to this great island.

On this page you will find the most popular questions I have been asked and some links for more information on Cuba. On the following six pages, you will find some writings and photos of our trip. Next page: Journal and Photos>

Frequently Asked Questions:

  1. How did you get there? Isn't it illegal for Americans to go there?
  2. Where did you stay?
  3. Where did you eat?
  4. How much money did it cost?
  5. Did you need to speak Spanish?
  6. How three types of currency exist or (how I spent - to an average Cuban- what would be the American equivalent of U.S.$12,000 for a single nite in a cheap hotel.)
  7. Can I check my email? What do you mean no Cuban is allowed legal access to the internet?
  8. Did you meet Fidel?
  9. Where does Fidel live?

Cuba links:

  1. Music and Culture http://afrocubaweb.com/
  2. National Cuba website http://www.cubasi.cu/
  3. Travel Agency http://www.cubalinda.com
  4. http://www.cubaweb.cu/eng/index.asp
  5. http://www.cuba.com/
  6. Cuba and Construction http://www.exploringearth.com/cubainfo.html
  7. Basic Facts on Cuba: http://www.cuba-solidarity.org.uk/faq.htm
  8. American Cuba updates and trips www.cubaupdate.org

Next page: Journal and Photos>


1. It is LEGAL for Americans to go to Cuba, however, it is technically illegal for Americans to spend money in Cuba, and thus begins the insanity. It is impossible to buy a ticket to Cuba from the U.S. (try going to Travelocity from the U.S. and look for Cuba) unless you have a business license or special license. We arranged our flights before we left Los Angeles and had two options: 1. Buy our Havana tickets in Cancun when we arrrive or 2. Buy in advance by wiring money to Cubalinda, a travel agency, who would buy our tickets for us. We had to trust in Cubalinda to assist us. We did option 2. When we arrived in Cancun, our tickets were at the Mexicana airline counter, as we had been told it would be.

There are laws being changed on a regular basis and if you are considering a trip, please research the laws. (posted at www.treas.gov/ofac) This law now states that ''full-time professionals whose travel is directly related to professional research'' can go without special permission. If they're questioned by U.S. Customs agents, they can simply say they were legally entitled to go.

Previously, Americans who fell into the professional category had to apply for a license. But Treasury ended that requirement last May, after the office tasked with giving licenses was deluged with requests. Who can go now without special permission? Apart from the obvious categories of journalist and academic, all kinds of people qualify: doctors who want to tour medical clinics, architects who want to view historic sites, and, perhaps, musicians who want to observe Afro-Caribbean rhythms in action. Washington requires only that the trip ''comprises a full work schedule'' and that the result ''has a substantial likelihood of public dissemination.'' Thus, this website!

.Return to Questions

2. We had a hotel in mind when we arrived in Havana. We had read that we should have a name ready. No one asked when we arrived though, but we did fill it out on our tourist card. At the Havana airport, we did reserve a room at a small desk before entering Customs for $50/nite. The Hotel Deauville, $50/nite. This turned out to be a good decision as it is central to both Havana Vieja and Centro Havana, and the views from our 15th floor room were killer of the the famous Malecon (Havana seawall) as well as the city. As we had read and been told, at Customs, the Customs agent stamped our tourist card, not our passport. Return to Questions

Because "They're charging First World prices for Third World services" in the hotels, we stayed primarily, we stayed in people's homes, called "casa particulares", $25/nite. Cuba has opened up a bit for free enterprise and one of the positives of this is the allowance of people to open their homes to tourists. Specifically we called Miriam Rodriguez' home in Havana, our home base. One of the writers of the Rough Guide stayed there we found out. Miriam and her daughter Sinai welcomed us into their home and we met many other people through them. Turns out, it really is the best way to travel in Cuba because you get to meet the local people. There are also illegal casa particulares and you only need to ask around on the streets or with local people for information on these.

If you'd like to stay at a casa particular, here is Miriam and Sinai's and their neighbor Mandy's contact information. Tell them Rhonda sent you! (So that they know where you got the info and I get a little thrill of helping people connect.)

Miriam and Sinai's house Rooms for rent: two big and comfortable rooms with double bed, air conditioned, with cold and hot water. The house is very big, with fresh ocean breeze, with a central patio, two balconies, located in a very central place of the city, just 500 meters to the “Malecón Habanero”, 10 minutes walking to Old Havana and 10 to “Vedado” the downtown of the city. Approximately US$25/nite per room. We offer other services also to help you enjoy your stay in Cuba. Address: Neptuno # 521 btw Lealtad y Campanario, Centro Habana, Ciudad de La Habana.Phone: (537) 878-4456. Please email us: sinai@cubacel.net (Use http://babelfish.altavista.com/ to translate to Spanish)   Their neighbor: Mandy: I rent a comfortable room, with air conditioning and cold and hot water.Address: Neptuno # 519 btw Lealtad Y Campanario, Centro Habana, Ciudad de la Habana, Cuba.Phone: (537) 862-8400 Please e-mail me: mandy06@medscape.com. (Use http://babelfish.altavista.com/ to translate to Spanish)

We also stayed one night at the Hotel Las Jazmines, in Vinales Valley, very beautiful view. $50/nite. Return to Questions

3.We primarily ate as "paladors". Another positive of some recent free enterprise allowances. Paladors are small restaurants in people's homes. Usually they have 4-6 tables and serve what they have in house that day. Paladors are all over Havana and easy to find. Regulary we had people come up to us to say they had a "great place to eat", but we did not take the bait. These people are paid a commission to bring you to their palador, and the tourist pays it without knowing it. Return to Questions

4.We brought $700-1000 cash each with us for 10 days. I did not spend it all. I'm not accustomed to traveling with so much money on me, but for Americans, ATMs, credit cards, and US bank-issued Traveler's cheques do not work here. I separated out the money into 2-3 seaparate places on my body, bags, etc. We had nothing stolen. I wore my passport holder under my shirt like I do in most countries that I'm rucksacking around in. Return to Questions

5. Of course, as with any country, it is preferable to speak the language of the people that live there. Cuba has the distinction of being a tourist destination for the rest of the world except for Americans, so there is a lot of English speakers among tourists as well as Cubans who work in the tourist industry. However, if you want a taste of the true Cuba, it is best to be able to speak Spanish or be with someone who does. Luckily, Ronni speaks fluent Spanish, so we were able to converse with individuals that otherwise would have been impossible. However, keep in mind, I would never say don't go somewhere just because you don't know the language. It really depends on each traveller and how willing he/she is to have a 3 minute conversation to ask for an ashtray (which is "cenicero" Thanks Ronni!).Return to Questions

5. The only currency you can buy anything with in Cuba is the currency of the only country on earth who won’t let people spend it there. Crazy, huh? There are three active currencies in Cuba. There is the Cuban peso that the Cubans get paid in and can buy rations and basics in, there is the American dollar, and there is the convertible peso, which converts exactly 1 peso to 1 dollar. Yes, this is a "double currency", apparently common in black market strong countries. So you have Cuban pesos, officially worth about 21 to $1, convertible pesos worth $1 each, and real live dollars. Return to Questions

6. I am proud to say I did not check my email while there, though it would have been hard to anyway. Yes, tourists can check their email at major hotels or more popularly, more cheaply at the Capitolio in Centro Havana, for about $5/hour. Most Cubans, however, would have a hard time getting access to the internet, let alone being able to pay $5/hour. “The Cuban state is very watertight. The general public does not have access to the Internet,” says Hector Maseda, the vice president for the Liberal Democratic Party in Cuba. “This service does not exist as it does in the rest of the world.” (http://abcnews.go.com/sections/world/DailyNews/cubainternet000721.html) From the people I spoke with, getting an internet connection at home is usually done only by people who can secure it through their job OR by the black market. Return to Questions

7. No, we did not meet Fidel. Though he apparently does stroll outside for events and does mingle among the people. We were on the lookout as we very much wanted to meet him.

8. No one in Cuba knows.

Next page: Journal and Photos>